{"id":2543,"date":"2022-07-06T15:57:42","date_gmt":"2022-07-06T15:57:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/magicoftheunknown.com\/?p=2543"},"modified":"2023-09-03T07:39:17","modified_gmt":"2023-09-03T07:39:17","slug":"part-two","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magicoftheunknown.com\/de\/sikkim\/part-two\/","title":{"rendered":"Sikkim - Land der Natursch\u00f6nheiten und Vielfalt (zweiter Teil)"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Am n\u00e4chsten Morgen fr\u00fchst\u00fcckten wir sehr sp\u00e4t und ausgiebig, wie es in der Bergregion aufgrund des kalten Wetters \u00fcblich ist. Die Tochter der Familie erz\u00e4hlte uns, dass die Einheimischen normalerweise gegen 10 oder 11 Uhr fr\u00fchst\u00fccken und bis zum Abendessen gegen 20 oder 21 Uhr au\u00dfer einem kleinen Snack nichts mehr essen. Sie studierte in Darjeeling und besuchte ihre Eltern nach langer Zeit. Man konnte ihr ansehen, wie gl\u00fccklich sie war, bei ihren Eltern und ihrem j\u00fcngeren Bruder zu Hause zu sein... <\/p>\n

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Alltag in den Bergen<\/h2>\n

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In den folgenden Tagen, die wir bei der Familie verbrachten, erfuhren wir viel \u00fcber das t\u00e4gliche Leben in dieser Region. Zuf\u00e4llig waren w\u00e4hrend unseres Besuchs Ferien und der Bruder von Herrn Gurung kam mit seiner Familie aus Gangtok zu Besuch. Die ganze Familie empfing uns in ihrem Zuhause und gab uns durch ihre Herzlichkeit und Freundlichkeit das Gef\u00fchl, ein Teil ihrer Familie zu sein. <\/p>\n

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W\u00e4hrend unserer Zeit dort wurde mir bewusst, wie hart das Leben in der Bergregion f\u00fcr die einheimische Bev\u00f6lkerung ist. Aber alle Menschen, die wir trafen, schienen den Herausforderungen recht positiv und gelassen zu begegnen. Besonders w\u00e4hrend der Pandemie, als der Tourismus, der die Haupteinnahmequelle der Region darstellt, v\u00f6llig zum Erliegen kam. <\/p>\n

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Die \u00e4ltere Tochter des Bruders von Herrn Gurung, die als \u00c4rztin in Gangtok arbeitete, erkl\u00e4rte jedoch, dass die Depressions- und Selbstmordrate in Sikkim ungew\u00f6hnlich hoch sei. Au\u00dferdem mangelt es in den D\u00f6rfern an medizinischer Versorgung. In Notf\u00e4llen m\u00fcssen die Menschen meist recht weit in die n\u00e4chstgr\u00f6\u00dfere Stadt fahren, um medizinische Hilfe zu erhalten. <\/p>\n

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Andererseits werden die Menschen selten krank, wie mehrere Personen, die wir trafen, best\u00e4tigten. Wenn jemand krank wird, geht er oder sie zu den Heilern in den D\u00f6rfern. Nur wenn der Heiler nicht helfen kann, besuchen die Menschen einen Arzt in einer der gr\u00f6\u00dferen St\u00e4dte. <\/p>\n

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Die Natur als Spielplatz. \u00a9 esspiefotografie<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n

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Teilnahme an einem Fest<\/h2>\n

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W\u00e4hrend unseres Aufenthalts in Darap erz\u00e4hlte uns Herr Gurung von einem gro\u00dfen lokalen Fest. Die heiligen buddhistischen B\u00fccher, die die Lehren Buddhas enthalten, werden in einer gro\u00dfen Prozession vom nahe gelegenen, ber\u00fchmten Kloster Pemayangtse in mehrere D\u00f6rfer der Region gebracht. Dieses Mal wurden die B\u00fccher zuerst in Darap empfangen. Nachdem sie dort \u00fcber Nacht geblieben waren, wurden sie in ein anderes Dorf weitergetragen. <\/p>\n

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Dank Herrn Gurung und seinem Bruder durften wir das Kloster von innen sehen und an der dreist\u00fcndigen Prozession teilnehmen. Es war eine Ehre und eine wunderbare Erfahrung, die Rituale aus n\u00e4chster N\u00e4he zu erleben. Als wir am Ende der Prozession in Darap ankamen, wurden wir in das Haus der Familie eingeladen, die in diesem Jahr die B\u00fccher f\u00fcr Darap beherbergte. <\/p>\n

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Die heiligen B\u00fccher werden nach Darap gebracht. \u00a9 esspiefotografie<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n

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F\u00fcr alle G\u00e4ste wurde ein gro\u00dfes Zelt errichtet, in dem das Mittagessen stattfand. Es war auch die Aufgabe der Familie, die M\u00f6nche zu beherbergen, die die B\u00fccher aus dem Kloster begleiteten. Als wir das Haus erreichten, wurden wir in einen der R\u00e4ume im hinteren Teil des Geb\u00e4udes gef\u00fchrt, in dem etwa zwanzig Personen Platz genommen hatten. Eine der anwesenden Frauen reichte uns verschiedene Snacks auf zwei Tellern und man bot uns indischen Milchtee an. <\/p>\n

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Einladung zu den Feierlichkeiten<\/h2>\n

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Als ich unter den Einheimischen sa\u00df und die Interaktionen um mich herum beobachtete, sah ich, dass Frauen und M\u00e4nner getrennt sitzen, was mich \u00fcberraschte. Ich hatte immer gedacht, dass die Geschlechtertrennung in der Himalaya-Region und in den nord\u00f6stlichen Teilen Indiens nicht so ausgepr\u00e4gt ist. Nach einiger Zeit verlie\u00dfen fast alle Frauen gemeinsam den Raum. <\/p>\n

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Pl\u00f6tzlich standen alle auf, nur wir nicht, da wir nicht wussten, was passiert war. Ein Mann betrat den Raum und sp\u00e4ter erfuhren wir, dass es sich um einen Lokalpolitiker handelte. Was mich am meisten erstaunte, war, dass die Menschen uns einfach unter sich aufnahmen, ohne Fragen zu stellen. Der Mann neben mir begann ein Gespr\u00e4ch mit uns. <\/p>\n

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Als er h\u00f6rte, dass ich aus Deutschland komme, erz\u00e4hlte er, dass eine Frau aus seinem Dorf mit einem Deutschen verheiratet ist und seit vielen Jahren in M\u00fcnchen lebt. Ich frage mich, wie klein die Welt ist, wenn ich tausende von Kilometern von Deutschland entfernt in einem kleinen Dorf im Himalaya sitze und von dieser unerwarteten Verbindung h\u00f6re. <\/p>\n

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Besuch von zwei entlegenen D\u00f6rfern <\/h2>\n

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An einem der folgenden Tage besuchten wir zwei abgelegene D\u00f6rfer in der N\u00e4he von Darap. Beide D\u00f6rfer waren schwer zu erreichen und die kurvenreiche Stra\u00dfe, die zu ihnen f\u00fchrte, war manchmal kaum befahrbar, so dass das Auto mehrmals ins Rutschen kam. Aber in beiden F\u00e4llen bewahrheitete sich das Sprichwort, dass die am schwierigsten zu erreichenden Orte die sch\u00f6nsten sind. Vor allem das zweite Dorf, das direkt an einem rei\u00dfenden Fluss lag, und nur \u00fcber eine Fu\u00dfg\u00e4ngerbr\u00fccke zu erreichen war, war von einer unbeschreiblich sch\u00f6nen Natur umgeben. <\/p>\n

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Um das Dorf zu erreichen, musste man die Br\u00fccke \u00fcberqueren und einen H\u00fcgel hinaufsteigen. Die erste Person, die wir sahen, war eine \u00e4ltere Dame, die eines der sch\u00f6nen traditionellen Kleider trug. Sie sa\u00df auf der Wiese vor ihrem Haus, umgeben von ihren drei kleinen Enkelkindern. Die drei Kinder schauten uns mit gro\u00dfen Augen aus der Ferne an und nach einiger Zeit l\u00e4chelte uns das mutigste Kind, ein kleines M\u00e4dchen, an, w\u00e4hrend ihre Br\u00fcder sich noch hinter ihrer Gro\u00dfmutter versteckten. <\/p>\n

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Blick auf die unerwarteten Besucher. \u00a9 esspiefotografie<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n

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Eine Vielfalt von Einfl\u00fcssen<\/h2>\n

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Der Gro\u00dfvater gesellte sich zu uns und unterhielt sich mit unserem Reisef\u00fchrer Kalzang und dem Fahrer, der uns in das Dorf gebracht hatte, in der Landessprache. Ich war immer wieder von Neuem erstaunt, wie vielf\u00e4ltig die Bergregion in Bezug auf Ethnien, Sprachen, Br\u00e4uche, Religion und Urspr\u00fcnge ist. Da Sikkim von Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan und Westbengalen umgeben ist, gab es im Laufe der Jahrhunderte eine immense Vielfalt von Einfl\u00fcssen. Dies hat der Region ihr eigenes, sehr spezifisches kulturelles und historisches Gepr\u00e4ge verliehen. <\/p>\n

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Das Dorf war gr\u00f6\u00dfer als der davor liegende Ort und hatte sogar eine Schule, die etwas h\u00f6her lag als das Haus der Familie. Leider wird die Schule aus Geldmangel und wegen mangelnder Sch\u00fclerzahlen bald geschlossen werden. Dann m\u00fcssen die Kinder des Dorfes weiter fahren, um zur Schule zu gehen. <\/p>\n

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Wir sa\u00dfen dort eine Zeit lang und h\u00f6rten nur dem Wind, den V\u00f6geln und dem Rauschen des Flusses zu. Als wir wieder den H\u00fcgel hinunterstiegen, zeigte Kalzang pl\u00f6tzlich auf eine bestimmte Pflanze, die auf den Feldern am Wegrand wuchs. \"Das sind Marihuana-Pflanzen\", sagte er. Als er meinen v\u00f6llig entgeisterten Gesichtsausdruck sah, f\u00fcgte er hinzu: \"Das ist f\u00fcr die K\u00fche. Wenn sie Bauchschmerzen haben, f\u00fcttern die Menschen sie mit Marihuana.\" <\/p>\n

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Sikkim als unerforschte Region<\/h2>\n

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Wie an vielen anderen Orten haben die Menschen in den beiden D\u00f6rfern ihre eigenes Homestay er\u00f6ffnet. Sie waren aber noch nicht in der Lage viele G\u00e4ste zu empfangen, abgesehen von den Wanderern, die diese Region durchqueren. Ein Grund daf\u00fcr ist, dass kommerzielle Werbung f\u00fcr Homestays in dieser Region nicht \u00fcblich ist. Der andere Grund ist, dass Sikkim noch gr\u00f6\u00dftenteils unerforscht und insgesamt vom Tourismus unber\u00fchrt ist. <\/p>\n

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Die meisten Touristen kommen aus anderen Teilen Indiens nach Sikkim. Aber auch innerhalb Indiens ist es nicht das Hauptreiseziel. Wie uns Herr Gurung erkl\u00e4rte, reisen internationale Touristen nur sehr selten nach Sikkim. Wenn \u00fcberhaupt, dann kommen sie zum Wandern in der atemberaubenden Natur. <\/p>\n

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Als wir unsere Reise nach einigen Tagen fortsetzten, verlie\u00df ich Sikkim schweren Herzens und mit dem Gef\u00fchl, dass es dort noch so viel mehr zu sehen und so viele weitere Orte zu besuchen gibt. Die Einfachheit des Lebens in dieser Region, die sch\u00f6nen, freundlichen Gesichter der Menschen, die wir getroffen hatten, und die atemberaubende Sch\u00f6nheit der Natur hinterlie\u00dfen einen tiefen Eindruck bei mir, und ich wei\u00df sicher, dass ich wiederkommen werde.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

We took a very late, heavy breakfast the next morning, as it is normal in the mountain region due to the cold climate. The daughter of the family told us that usually people have a late breakfast at around 10 or 11 am and do not eat anything besides a snack till dinner is served at around 8 or 9 pm. She is studying in Darjeeling and was visiting her parents after a long time. One could see her happiness being at home with her parents and her younger brother. Daily life in the mountains In the following days that we spent with the family, we learned a lot about daily life in this region. By chance there were holidays during our visit and the brother of Mr. Gurung came with his family for a visit from Gangtok. The whole family opened their home to us and through their warmth and kindness made us feel a part of their family. During our time there, I realized how hard the life in the mountain region is for the local population. But all the people that we met seemed to have quite a positive and peaceful outlook on all the challenges. Especially during the pandemic when tourism, the main source of income in the region, came to a complete halt. However, as the elder daughter of Mr. Gurung’s brother pointed out, who works as a doctor in Gangtok, rate of depression and suicide are unexpectedly high in Sikkim. Furthermore, there is a lack of medical care in the villages. For emergencies, people mostly have to travel quite far to the next bigger town to receive medical help. But on the other hand, as several persons that we met confirmed, people rarely fall sick. If someone falls ill, he or she visits healers in the villages. Only if the healer is unable to help, they go to see a doctor in one of the bigger towns. Becoming part of a festival During our stay in Darap, Mr. Gurung told us about a big local festival. The holy Buddhist scriptures containing the teachings of Lord Buddha are carried in a big procession from the close-by famous Pemayangtse monastery to several villages in the region. This time, a resident of Darap had the honor to receive the books as the first person. After being there overnight, they traveled to another village. Thanks to Mr. Gurung and his brother, we were allowed to see the monastery from inside and participate in the three hour long procession (please check out the Youtube video). It was an honor and a wonderful experience to observe the rituals from such close quarters. Once we reached Darap at the end of the procession, we were invited to the house of the family who was hosting the books for Darap this year. A big tent was erected for all the guests, where lunch was offered. It was also the responsibility of the family to host the monks who accompanied the books from the monastery. Once we reached the designated house, we were guided to one of the rooms at the back of the house, in which around 20 people were seated. One of the women present gave us different snacks on two plates and we were offered Indian milk tea. Getting invited to the festivities Sitting among the locals and observing the interactions around me, I saw that women and men sit separately, which surprised me. I always thought that gender separation is not that prominent in the Himalayan region and the North Eastern parts of India. After some time nearly all the women left the room together. Suddenly, everyone stood up, except us, not being aware what had happened. A gentleman entered the room and later on we learnt that he is a local politician. What astonished me most is that people simply accepted us among them, without asking questions. The gentleman next to me started conversing with us. Once he heard that I am from Germany he told that a woman from his village is married to a German and lives in Munich since many years. I wonder how small this world is, sitting thousands of kilometers away from Germany in a small village in the Himalayas and hearing about this unexpected connection. Visiting two remote villages On one of the following days, we visited two very remote villages near Darap. Both villages were difficult to reach and the curvy road leading to them was sometimes barely passable with the car sliding several times. But on both occasions, the saying that the most difficult to reach destinations are the most beautiful holds true. Especially the second village, which is located right beside a wild river with only a foot bridge leading to it, is surrounded by incredible beautiful nature. To reach the village, one has to cross the bridge and climb up a hill. The first person that we saw was an elderly lady clad in one of the beautiful traditional dresses. She was sitting on the grass field in front of her house with her grandchildren surrounding her. The three children looked at us with big eyes from a distance and after some time the boldest one, a baby girl, smiled at us while her brothers still hid behind their grandmother. A variety of influences The grandfather joined us and talked with our guide Kalzang and driver, who had brought us to the village, in the local language. I kept wondering again how extremely diverse the mountain region is regarding ethnicity, languages, customs, religion and origin. With Sikkim being surrounded by Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan and West Bengal, there has been an immense variety of influences throughout the centuries. This has given the region their own, very specific cultural and historical make-up. The village is bigger than the other and even had a school, situated a little higher than the house of the family. Unfortunately, due to lack of funding and number of students, the school will be closed soon. Then the children of the village have to travel further to receive education. We sat there for quite some time, only listening to the the wind, the birds and the gushing sound of the river below. When we climbed down the hill again, Kalzang suddenly pointed to a particular plant that is growing on the fields on the roadside. \u201eThese are marihuana plants\u201c, he told. Seeing my completely blank facial expression, he added: \u201eThis is for the cows. When they have a stomach ache, people feed them marihuana.\u201c Sikkim as an unexplored region Like many other locations, people in both the villages have started their own homestays, but were not yet able to welcome many guests besides hardcore trekkers who pass through this region. One reason for that is, that commercial advertising of homestays is not common in this region. The other main reason is that Sikkim is still largely unexplored and overall untouched by tourism. There are mostly tourists from other parts of India traveling to Sikkim. But even within India it is not the main travel destination. As Mr. Gurung told us, international tourists very rarely travel to Sikkim. If at all, they come for trekking in the stunning nature. When we resumed our journey after a few days, I left Sikkim with a heavy heart and the feeling that there is so much more to see and so many more places to visit there. The simplicity of life in this region, the beautiful, smiling faces of the people we met and the breathtaking beauty of the nature has left a deep impression on me and I know for sure that I will come back.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2562,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[166,167],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2543","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-himalayas","category-sikkim"],"yoast_head":"\nSikkim - land of natural beauty and diversity (part two)<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"During our stay we learnt 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